Streetwear seems to be in its adult phase. Many trendy designers have been able to land posts at luxury houses that are well-known, sending out luxurious sweaters and loose suits. Kith collaborated recently with Parachute luxury bedding brand on logofied sheets, duvet covers. The concept of what a hip, creative person looks like is shifting to something more tailored and refined.
Tommy Hilfiger, particularly among Gen-Z and Millennial shoppers, is well-positioned to profit from this shift. Over the past few years, the designer has gone beyond traditional codes of preparation and shifted his international brand to a more youthful and street-inspired direction. This continues with Hilfiger’s spring 23 collection, which the designer previewed at the brand’s offices in Manhattan. “I like to move away from just sweats,” Hilfiger says, showing off an immaculately tailored pair of chinos that would go great with an oversized cable-knit sweater. “We’ve been doing a lot of streetwear for many, many years and I like when it becomes much more elegant.”
What excites Hilfiger about today’s fashion landscapes and the outfits he sees on New York’s streets? “Proportions,” he says. “And new shapes.”
The collection reflects this trend in design. Many pieces are in line with the latest trends and preferences of younger shoppers. There’s a chunky sweater in lime-green (a recurring color in the collection), which features a textural 3D waffle print. Hilfiger points at the garment, then holds up a pair pleated trousers in the bright fluorescent color and calls it a great look. Boat shoes can be found with thick soles, jacquard baggy briefs, and a micro-skirt and crop sweater. Hilfiger’s garments are so creatively arranged that it is clear that he has his sights set on tomorrow. Many of the sweaters, hoodies and jackets in the collection are made from recycled polyester. Sustainable denim is also featured throughout.
Andy Warhol was another key influence on this nautical-themed collection. His hazy days at Montauk, New York is one example of his influence. Andy Warhol Diaries). Hilfiger has repeatedly paid tributes to Warhol and says that his memories of Warhol still hold a special place in his heart. “I met Andy when I moved here in the ’80s, and he took me to his factory,” he remembers, sharing his awe at viewing the hotel artist’s paintings of Mohammed Ali, Diana Ross, David Bowie, and others. “It blew me away.”
“I always connected the brand with music and musicians,” the designer continues. “But then I thought, ‘Okay, but Andy’s doing pop cultural icons.’ I started evolving from doing groups of people from Hollywood—the sports world, the music world, influencers.”
With this collection of washed styles, comfortable fabrics, and smart tailoring, it’s easy to imagine oneself as an off-duty artist vacationing in a private enclave. You can at least feel like one.