Thursday, November 10, 20,22
After COVID-19 lockdowns ended, the world emerged. Lenzing And Jeanologia The sixth edition of Sustainable Denim Wardrobe was co-organized by the two companies. It explored ways to bring joy to clothing. Both companies have been leaders in the pursuit of more environmentally-sound denim manufacturing for a long time.
“The point is that from the beginning with Tencel the unique selling proposition was always an environmentally responsible fiber, but for many years that fell on deaf ears,” said Michael Kininmonth, business development project manager at Lenzing, which is celebrating the 30-year anniversary of its Tencel Lyocell. “Now, we continue to push the idea of responsible processing, but working with Jeanologia and working with the premium mills that we do, everyone is trying to create best in class in terms of a sustainably responsible commercial collection.”
Joy in design
The denim leaders posed the question, “What makes you feel good?” to 50 people whose answers candidly described the people, experiences and destinations for which they had longed during the darkest days of the pandemic. According to the team, people who were surveyed felt most joy in simple and unexpected experiences. These included: waking up and applying a perfume, travel, a romantic evening, exercising, laughing, sharing time with loved ones and exchanging a hug.
Music and nature were the most popular elements, with balance also being a popular theme. Lenzing and Jeanologia wanted to channel these feelings, emotions and experiences into a print created by freelance fashion designer and consultant Betina Grosser, who described the final design as a “dopamine trip.”
“We saw in the print the opportunity to foster an emotional connection and to carry the message throughout the collection. Nature is very important not only as it is but also having the opportunity to do our favorite activities surrounded by it,” said Grosser. “The inspiration for the print is based in surrealism with psychedelic overtones.”
Grosser’s design is featured not only in campaign materials but also on the garments in the Simple Pleasures collection, which relied on Lenzing’s Tencel Lyocell and Jeanologia’s technology. A variety of pieces feature the print including a three-button vest and collared button-up Tencel shirting as well as a reversible pants. The print was used to create linings. Laser elements were also included on areas like the inside of the blazer lapels and the legs of jeans.
“We transferred the concept to the garments from the print itself and through laser details. This micro level is represented by what we call ‘hidden treasures,’ explained Carme Santacruz Zaragozá, creative director at Jeanologia. “They are representations of everyday things lasered into the garments in unexpected places like in the selvage or hidden on the flaps of the garment. Our motto is: ‘Always look on the bright side of life,’ obviously a reference from ‘Monty Python.’ It’s a way of also extending this storytelling through the finishing details.”
The simplicity of sustainability in jeans
The Sustainable Denim Wardrobe is the latest effort to support a circular fashion economy. The life cycle of quality garments can be extended by using sustainable production methods that reduce waste.
“My hope is that the philosophies behind this collection will encourage designers to create more-responsibly made garments and consumers to give a longer ‘first life’ to such garments as well as being reused in ‘further lives’ by new owners,” said Kininmonth.
The intention behind the Simple Pleasures collection was to create classic silhouettes that rely not on trends but style, according to Santacruz Zaragozá. Jeanologia and Lenzing collaborated with textile partners in the creation of this collection. These included Bossa, Cone Denim, Kaihara, Orta Anadolu And ProsperityWhile House of U Serving as a printing partner
“This is a collection that could be a source of inspiration for creatives and also as a way of saying that we can do beautiful things with meaningful garments and with an approach not just from sustainability in terms of the technical and finishing and materials but also combined with an important concept of storytelling,” explained Santacruz Zaragozá.
The Environmental Impact Measurement platform considered the environmental impact of every sourcing component and process. The process measured how much water, chemicals, energy and energy were required to make the garments. It did not use any resources that could give a high score. To reduce waste, designs were digitally created and reviewed. You can find patches made from cork, laser logos on buttons, buttons with eco finishes and hangtags made from recycled materials.
“We need to address sustainability in a holistic view. We have to take care of our footprint and look for materials and processes that are respectful to people and the environment,” said Grosser. “This collection [also] Tells a story. It looks for value to have a connection to create connections between people—from the people who took the survey for the collaborative design process to people that are now seeing this process and relating with the project and the garments.”