Streetwear seems to be in its adult phase. Many trendy designers have been able to land posts at luxury houses that are well-known, sending out loose suits or opulent sweaters. Kith has collaborated with Parachute, a luxury bedding brand, to create logofied sheets as well as duvet covers. The concept of what a hip, creative person looks like is shifting to something more tailored and refined.
Tommy Hilfiger, especially among Gen-Z and Millennial shoppers, is well-positioned to profit from this shift. Over the past few years, the well-known designer has expanded on traditional codes and moved his brand internationally into a youth-focused and street-influenced direction. This continues with Hilfiger’s spring 23 collection, which the designer previewed at the brand’s offices in Manhattan. “I like to move away from just sweats,” Hilfiger says, showing off an immaculately tailored pair of chinos that would go great with an oversized cable-knit sweater. “We’ve been doing a lot of streetwear for many, many years and I like when it becomes much more elegant.”
What excites Hilfiger about today’s fashion landscapes and the outfits he sees on New York’s streets? “Proportions,” he says. “And new shapes.”
The collection reflects this trend in design. Many pieces are in line with the latest trends and preferences of younger shoppers. There’s a chunky sweater in lime-green (a recurring color in the collection), which features a textural 3D waffle print. Hilfiger points out the garment and holds up a pair o pleated trousers in the same bright, fluorescent hue. He calls it a great style. Boat shoes can be found with thick soles, jacquard baggy briefs, and a micro-skirt and crop sweater. Hilfiger’s garments are so creatively arranged that it is clear that he has his sights set on tomorrow. (Many sweaters and hoodies are made with recycled polyester, and there is sustainable denim throughout the collection.
Andy Warhol, and the hazy days that he spent at Montauk in New York are another major influence on the nautical-themed collection. Some of these days are poignantly documented by the Netflix documentary Andy Warhol Diaries). Hilfiger, who paid tribute to Warhol many times, said that his memories of the art icon are still very strong. “I met Andy when I moved here in the ’80s, and he took me to his factory,” he remembers, sharing his awe at viewing the hotel artist’s paintings of Mohammed Ali, Diana Ross, David Bowie, and others. “It blew me away.”
“I always connected the brand with music and musicians,” the designer continues. “But then I thought, ‘Okay, but Andy’s doing pop cultural icons.’ I started evolving from doing groups of people from Hollywood—the sports world, the music world, influencers.”
With this collection of washed styles, comfortable fabrics, and smart tailoring, it’s easy to imagine oneself as an off-duty artist vacationing in a private enclave. You can at least feel like one.